Jaquet Droz - Master of Enamel Dials

When you think of the brand Jaquet Droz, enamel dial comes to mind. And not just any enamel dial - a two toned one at that!

A friend of mine actually owns one of these beauties. The timepiece is limited to 88 pieces and a certificate informing the owner that the dial is a special batch of two toned dial.

The certificate informs the owner that the timepiece comes with a cream coloured "grand feu" enamelled dial and the ivory coloured applied "grand feu" enamelled subdials.

Enamel dials are difficult to make. Some say the success rate is as low as 40 to 1, that is for every 40 dials, only one make it. And this is for "normal" enamel dials. "Grand feu" enamelling is a rather sophisticated technique that only a few practitioners have managed to master. After several layers of enamelling can the master transfer the Roman and Arabic numerals unto the dial prior to the final firing in the oven.

This particular model features two different enamelling processes and three separate enamelled dial and subdials brazed together.

The Grand Feu technique takes patience and skills to achieve a close to flawless dial. The artisan applies the oxides and fires the dials in the oven several times to achieve a consistent dial. Notice the white spots on the dial - perfect imperfection. Gives the dial its character and uniqueness. Because of the way enamel firing is done, no two dials can be alike.

As I understand it, the brand does not make two toned dials anymore. Just too difficult to make them. The rejection rate is close to 99% and allows the production of only 1 to 2 pieces per month.

The back features an automatic calibre and a well decorated rotor. The movement has a power reserve of more than 60 hours.

The Grande Seconde two tones has lots of presence - the beauty of the enamel and the two toned dial is just stunning. The 43mm case is just nice to show off the enamel and gives proportion to the two off-centre dials.

You can see that the dials are not perfect ie there are still spots here and there. Some say that if the enamel dial is perfect that it is not enamel - there is still so much that humans can achieve. And enamelling is an art plus lots of science of getting it at the right temperature. But somehow, I think it is more art than science.

I am happy for my friend who owns this unique limited edition - I think it will be a long while before Jaquet Droz will come up with two tone dials again.

Fourteen Historical Timepieces from Vacheron Constantin

The Manufacture Vacheron Constantin is showcasing the brand’s artistic craftsmanship with an exhibition now on at their Ion Orchard Boutique.

I headed down to the boutique on a Saturday afternoon and Ryan hosted me, showing me all the pieces and the era they are from. The exhibition showcases the long history of the Manufacture with pieces dating back to the eighteen hundreds.

For starters, Ryan showed me the India inspired pieces...A pocket watch circa 1831 in yellow gold with a flower motif and Champlevé enamelled case.

And the second India inspired pocket watch dating back to 1834. A 18K yellow gold, Champlevé enamelled case and in line engraving.

Then there was the Ottoman period pocket watch dated 1824. This example is a 18K pink gold case adorned with oval cut amethysts and half-cabochon turquoise appliques. This pocket watch is a quarter repeater with a pink gold dial.

And from the same period is a lady's pendant watch dated 1843. This 18K yellow gold, Champlevé enamelled cased pendant watch is decorated with a foliage bouquet and highlighted with pearls over an enamel backdrop and also with a diamond centre.

French inspiration is featured in the next two timepieces. First a lady's pendant watch dated 1909 which features a 18K yellow gold case with translucent enamel on guilloché back. The pendant is intricately decorated with a peacock feather guilloché pattern with the central motif picked out in diamonds.

And another lady's pendant watch dating back to 1911 but this one with a platinum case and chain. The case is decorated with applied geometrical motif set with diamonds.

Next are other Asian themed timepieces - one of which is my favourite on display. The lady's brooch-watch dated 1925 is a 18K yellow and white gold case with Japanese-inspired decorations in diamonds, rubies, coral, mother-of-pearl and black enamel.

Next is a piece dated 1923 with a 18K yellow gold china lacquered and enamel pocket watch. The winding crown is a pearl and the pocket watch comes with a black lacquer dial. This Art Deco pocket watch has enamel decoration depicting a bird. Additionally, the watch is done with black Champlevé enamelled dial and red enamel Arabic numerals.

Also during the Art Deco period are two very interesting pieces - one a pocket watch and another a wristwatch. The pocket watch can also double up as a table clock display and comes with shutters. The case is made of 18K yellow gold with coral, black and red enamel.

When open, the watch pops up featuring a silver dial time display. This piece is dated 1929.

Dated 1930, this Art Deco wristwatch comes with a spring loaded shutter. At first glance, the wristwatch looks like a bracelet...

The crown on the left opens the louvres showing off the time. The timepiece is in white and yellow gold with black enamel indexes on the bezel. The bracelet is in 14K yellow gold.

Greek heritage on show too - two pieces, one a gentleman's wristwatch and another a lady's pendant watch. The wristwatch is a 18K yellow gold timepiece with enamelled Greek fret pattern on the bezel. This timepiece is dated 1913.

The lady's pendant watch (1914) is one with a white and yellow gold case with caseback decorated with Greek cameo-inspired painted scene surrounded by diamonds and enamel.

The exhibition also featured 19th Century open work pocket watches. The first is a 1926 open work skeletonised movement 18K white gold pocket watch with rock crystal and black enamel indexes on the bezel. The movement is made of German silver.

Next is another skeletonised open work pocket watch dated 1986. The yellow and white gold pocket watch comes with an engraved gilt skeleton movement. I love the engraved movement and this is why this pocket watch was awarded the Prix de la ville de Genève in 1986.

These are museum pieces so they will remain in the display showcases. Although you are not allowed to handle the pieces, I still think it is a worthwhile trip to visit the Vacheron Constantin Boutique at Ion Orchard. One don't normally get to see such pieces unless you visit the museum in Geneva, so I suggest you visit the boutique while they are here on display. Exhibition is on till end September 2015. Thanks to Christine and Ryan for the arrangements.

Vacheron Constantin - An Artistic Exhibition

The Manufacture Vacheron Constantin is bringing to Singapore a special heritage exhibition to their ION Orchard boutique that will run until end September, showcasing the brand’s artistic craftsmanship.

Offering an authentic journey across continents, Vacheron Constantin brings to Singapore a new themed exhibition dedicated to the history of horological adornments. It sets the stage for 14 historical models – chosen from the private collection of the Manufacture – illustrating various major artistic movements. A tour that testifies to masterful gestures and abundant creativity rarely equalled in the field of decorative arts, a hallmark of the Geneva school.

The above is an example from 1925 – A Lady’s brooch watch, yellow gold case with Japanese-inspired decoration in diamonds, rubies, coral, mother-of-pearl and black enamel. And there will be more such works of art like this pocket watch.

And this art deco inspired wrist watch

A bracelet transforming into a wristwatch.

Exhibition is at the Ion Orchard Boutique till end September. A good opportunity to find out more about why Manufacture Vacheron is a leader in artistic timepieces. Many more pieces at the boutique.

Pictures as supplied by Vacheron Constantin.

JLC Reserve De Marche

JLC is perhaps one of the most affordable in-house manufacturer in the Swiss Watchmaking industry and continues to be so. With more than 1,000 calibres to their name, Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre is my definition of a a good value for money Swiss brand.

When I first saw the JLC Master Reserve De Marche, I liked the relatively simple timepiece and in this case, the very feminine touch of the grey coloured dial.

The date is displayed at the 2 o'clock position while the 40 odd hours power reserve is located at the 10 o'clock position. The seconds hands sub-dial is located at 6. The timepiece comes with folding deployant buckle.

At the back is an open case displaying the automatic movement. Clearly stated that the watch has undergone the JLC 1,000 hours control testing.

A well made 38mm timepiece is elegant and the shade of grey makes it truly feminine.

JLC has always been a great brand for me. My advise to many watch friends who are starting out in their horological journey to start of with a JLC - well priced for an in-house movement. And then move on to the other complications within the brand. You will not be short of timepieces in the JLC Manufacture.

Happy SG50 Singapore!

Happy 50th Years of Independence Singapore!

We have indeed come a long way and I wish Singapore and all Singaporeans 50 more good years ahead!

For more on SG50 watch, check out my post on the Orient and the JLC.

Happy Birthday Singapore!

Functionally Pretty - Ulysse Nardin GMT +/-

Ulysse Nardin made horological history when they unveiled the Freak. I love the Freak but I cannot afford one. So the next best thing is to buy another icon of the brand - the GMT.

Unlike other brands, The UN GMT is a very easy timepiece to adjust. Otherwise known as the GMT +/- (plus/minus), this timepiece is just so easy to adjust. And the sunburst dial makes it a lot more attractive too.

The timepiece comes with a big date at the 2 o’clock position and a second window at the nine o’clock position showing home time. The seconds hands is located at 6.

Two push buttons are located on the left side of the case - the top one being the plus (+) and the bottom one being the minus (-). As with many Swiss watches, we are advised not to make changes to the time between 10pm and 4am.

This being a lady’s timepiece is set with diamonds. 8 diamond markers, 12 smaller diamonds encircling the seconds sub-dial and a diamond encrusted Twelve.

At the back is an ETA modified automatic movement that powers the timepiece.

Overall a pretty and functional piece.

The brand is exclusive to The Hour Glass and UN has already developed a new in-house movement for this range.