NOMOS Glashütte & The Hour Glass Singapore - Zurich Weltzeit Collaboration

Back in 2016, NOMOS and The Hour Glass announced their collaboration and behind the scene, a group of collectors floated the idea of a Singapore special edition. And the fine folks at The Hour Glass started the journey of developing the Zurich Weltzeit Singapore Limited Edition.

And what a beauty was unveiled one year on...

The NOMOS Zurich Weltzeit (World Time) Singapore Limited Edition was unveiled with two variants - a Salmon and White dial versions. The Salmon dial was limited to 15 examples while the White, to 35 pieces. 50 in total.

I took to liking the Salmon dial version immediately. Based on press releases, the colour of the dial was a pinky hue and as described, salmon pink. But the final version was anything but.

In most World Time timepieces, the city in feature "by default" is almost always Hong Kong. The Singapore Limited Edition replaced the city to be Singapore. But the Singapore Limited Edition went one step further - the island state is also known to many as "The Little Red Dot". Instead of the "home" symbol on the regular Weltzeit, they replaced the "home" with a little red dot! Brilliant!

And to keep the theme consistent, the Singapore and the little red dot is, of course, in red! Whether it is a coincidence or by design (pun intended), NOMOS has been awarded several "Red Dot Design Awards". I hope the "Little Red Dot" edition wins a "Red Dot Design Award". What an outcome it would be!

When you look at the timepiece itself, the colour of the dial and the texture changes from angle to angle. The dial has a kind of sandy texture. Not only is the dial having a sandy texture, the salmon hue is the first time NOMOS is using this colour.

The way the dial colour comes across to the owner is a vintage feel - lighter in the centre then slowly getting darker as it radiates outwards.

The colour actually looks more bronze than salmon pink, not that I am complaining. The colour combination with the red dot and red Singapore is a stand out. Great job guys!

I intentionally darken the contrast to bring out the sandy grain and the colour graduation of the dial. Note the lighter hue in the centre of the dial and the darkening effects as it graduates outwards.

The steel case is shy of 40mm - a good size case for a World Time.

The crown is signed and the pusher at the 2 o'clock turns the world city ring. The pusher is firm and exact - exactly what I had expected from the folks at NOMOS. On the case back, one can clearly see the words "NOMOS Glashütte Zurich Weltzeit - Singapore Limited Edition" with the limitation number engraved as the bottom of the case.

Now for the movement - the in-house automatic DUW5201 calibre. The DUW 5201 is the first automatic caliber with the in-house NOMOS swing system which I had written about earlier on my NOMOS Metro.

DUW stands for NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke and the power reserve on this piece is approximately 42 hours.

Finishing on this piece is as one would expect - finishing worthy of the timepiece.

A close up of the automatic rotor with Glashütte ribbing.

List price on this piece is S$8,560 for both variants which makes it great value.

I believe all the 50 pieces have been accounted for - not surprising really. And with this first piece, I hope that the folks at The Hour Glass will continue with a few more of the same salmon (bronze) dial versions of other NOMOS models. Perhaps the Metro, Tangente or even Tetra... Count me in for the next release!

An Interview with NOMOS around The Metro and Calibre DUW4401

The NOMOS Metro is putting the Glashütte based manufacture in the forefront of in-house developed movements.

With ETA announcing that they will reduce supply to non-Swatch brands, many watch houses have been eagerly developing their own movements. Nomos has been exceptional in this respect having started out with their Alpha movements. Every single NOMOS timepiece is powered by an in-house produced movement and, since 2005, the company has developed ten proprietary calibers. Impressive for a company with such a short history in the world of watchmaking.

So I got my hands on the NOMOS Metro earlier on this year and I have to say that I like the timepiece a lot. Having worn the watch, I wrote to the good folks at NOMOS and made some enquiries. The following are their response.

1. What is the Swing System?

The NOMOS swing system is our proprietary escapement—that is, the complex system of balance, balance spring, and pallet that comprises the heart of every mechanical movement. As the decisive part of every watch movement, the escapement significantly determines the robustness and durability of a watch.

After seven years of research and development in cooperation with the Technical University of Dresden and the Fraunhofer Institute, we now have our own in-house version. Until now, it was quite impossible for small watchmaking companies to produce their own escapement as it was too difficult, too complicated, and too expensive. The only option was to craft parts by hand at immense cost—ten or one hundred pieces, but not affordable series production. This is why nearly all brands source their systems from the same few specialized producers in Switzerland. After all, the pallet, escape wheel, and balance (and the other tiny parts that also belong to the swing system) do not only have to be perfect in themselves, exact down to the mu, but also an extremely well functioning team.

When we first presented the NOMOS swing system in DUW 4401 at Baselworld 2014, it caused a storm in the media—and with customers alike. (And we can see why!)

2. And why is it called the "Swing System“

The name of this part refers to how this caliber part moves—namely, with swing! The pallet moves back and forth, releasing a minute amount of energy each time.

3. How do you number your Calibre DUW 4401

Because our extremely high levels of in-house production in Glashütte are anything other than ordinary in the watchmaking industry, we also have a new name: “NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke” or DUW, for short. This new name underlines our ability to produce fine calibers in-house—and ensures the very best quality, made in Glashütte, Germany. NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke emphasizes the in-house movement production of NOMOS in Glashütte.

4. Was the calibre developed ground up i.e. started totally new?

NOMOS Glashütte has its own research and development department dedicated to bringing new innovations and improvements to our calibers. It was the NOMOS R&D department, for example, that developed our own gear wheel train—and the NOMOS swing system, of course. DUW 4401 is the start of a new series of calibers from NOMOS Glashütte, because movements featuring our proprietary escapement boast an incredibly high level of accuracy, which is comparable with chronometer standards.

5. Why novel way of changing date? I find it rather inconvenient to change date.

We still think that it is fairly simple to change the date on Metro. The NOMOS rapid set date function allows you to set the date by winding the hour hand between eight and one o’clock. Start by simply setting the watch to one o’clock the next day, which will change the date. Then wind the hands anticlockwise to around eight thirty in the evening. Now you can wind clockwise to one o’clock, which will change the date again. When you are setting the time afterwards, please check whether you are setting it to ten o’clock in the evening or the morning—as if you get it wrong, the date will change at midday instead of midnight.

6. Will the movement be used (as base) for future watches?

Yes, we are in the process of equipping our entire range of timepieces with DUW calibers featuring the NOMOS swing system. The introduction of our DUW calibers will take place gradually; but the aim is that in the future, each and every NOMOS watch will be powered by a caliber featuring our proprietary escapement. Not only does the NOMOS swing system ensure chronometer-standard accuracy for the timepieces it powers, it also ensures independence and growth for NOMOS Glashütte as a company.

A rather handsome timepiece I must say...

7. How long did it take you to develop the Metro from time of conception to actual serial production?

Like all our watches, the Metro model took a long time to design, develop, and prepare for series production. At NOMOS Glashütte, it can often take years from when the first drafts are drawn up before the watches are ready for the market, and to be sent out into the world. And that may be the most important lesson: Those who build watches need patience and time. And the occasional coffee break.

Small details like the crown etc. are well developed (pardon the dirt)...

8. When did it start and when was it commercially released?

Our first Metro model was introduced to the public and press for the first time at Baselworld 2014. Since then, we have added two new versions to the Metro family—Metro 38 Datum and Metro 38 Datum urban gray. In Metro’s first year on the market, it has won numerous design prizes; including the Red Dot Award, the German Design Award, the Good Design Award, the iF Product Design Award, and the Goldene Unruh. The enthusiasm from the design community has been shared by customers too — as Metro has become one of NOMOS’ bestselling models. In fact, Metro still has long waiting lists with many retailers, despite NOMOS Glashütte tripling its planned production.

The response from NOMOS Glashütte/SA came courtesy of Ms. Katrin Bosse - many thanks Ms Bosse. We are equally excited about NOMOS making an "official" entry into the Singapore market. Watches of Switzerland (The Hourglass) is the authorised agent for NOMOS timepieces. Head down to the Vivo City outlet where they carry the NOMOS range.

Metro - The All Important Nomos

With the unveiling of the Nomos Metro, the Glashutte manufacture has created another stir! In-house developed and manufactured escapement they call - The Swing System.

Four of us managed to get our hands on this beauty - so excited I am that I want to share the first images with you.

Truly Nomos! A 37mm case and ultra-thin too.

And the case back featuring the in-house movement and in-house escapement. The calibre is DUW4401.

One more look at the all new Nomos Metro!

I am loving it! More report to come. Stay tuned!

The Wempe Chronometerwerke - Answer to Swiss Watchmaking

I had visited Hamburg for a business trip and again ended up at watch retailer Wempe. The last time I bought some Nomos watches but this time, I was determined not to lose sight of the in-house timepiece - the Wempe Chronometerwerke!

Called the Wempe Chronometerwerke, the tonneau shaped timepiece is designed by Wempe but manufactured by Nomos. What's so special about the Chronometerwerke? Well the folks at Wempe made it to exacting standards as one would expect of a chronometer. A chronometer is a precise timepiece, finely adjusted in various positions and temperatures and in the case of Wempe has proven the accuracy of its rate during a fifteen-day series of tests administered by an official timepiece-testing authority. Not only is the timepiece accurate, it is beautifully crafted too.

The timepiece is very well made for a watch in this price category. Just under EUR4,750 (list), the watch is great value.

As usual, I like the the blued hands and the Arabic numerals on the white dial. Proportions are nice and the timepiece comes with a stop second (hacking seconds).

What's so special about this tonneau shaped watch on top of its accuracy? Well, Wempe designed the Calibre CW1 to fit the case. In many brands, they put round movements into tonneau or rectangular cases and if that is not bad enough, seal the case back from view.

The CW1 is typical German Glashutte watchmaking - three quarter plate. But what is of surprise is the hand engraved balance cock for a timepiece of this price range. Timepiece also comes with 23 rubies and a swan-neck fine adjustment.

The timepiece comes with twin barrels providing 80 hours of power reserve. I love the hand-engraved balance cock. My friend Prof Harry Tan said it well - what other watch in the market today provides such value at this price point?

Honestly, I think this is a great value for money timepiece. Wempe has several other variations to this watch - in gold, with Roman numerals etc. But I like this one best. And I am a sucker for well done blue hands.

As I was flying back from Hamburg to Singapore via Zurich, Switzerland I had to take a picture of this watch with the Swiss Air magazine…

A German made watch on the way to Switzerland - home of many high end watch brands. But then again, how many watch brands in Switzerland can make a timepiece at this price point and still do so with an in-house developed movement? Not many I suppose. Well done Wempe!

Picnic or BBQ? This is Nomos

For all the publicity they have as a brand, Nomos does not have an authorized retailer in Singapore. So when I went to Hamburg some time back, I had to seek them out. And what a pleasant surprise it was - well at least for my wife.

Nomos probably has one of the most varied range of Limited Editions many of them for the Germany company Wempe. So when I was in Hamburg several years back, I walked into a Wempe store and what greeted me were the last few pieces of some Nomos Limited Edition pieces. Oddly enough, the LEs are priced cheaper than the regular range Tangente!

The three pieces available were the BBQ, Rosemarie and the Picknick. BBQ because the checkered patterns resemble that of a table cloth used for outdoor BBQs. The two BBQ and PickNick look nice as a pair.

The Rosemarie has an intricate rose motif and the blued hands lends a nice contrast to the pinkish dial.

The limited editions come limited to 100 pieces and are engraved at the case back. But I understand that Nomos is willing to do limited dials in as small a quantity as 20. Nomos changes the dial and hands colors to create different LEs.

The open case back reveals the Tangente Manual winding Calibre Alpha. Featuring the Glashütte three quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing. The Alpha is an in-house developed movement.

One feature of all Nomos watches is the strap - they all come with Shell Cordovan hand made straps. And the buckle is also engraved with the brand name.

Nomos also makes automatic pieces they call Tangomat. I am particularly taken by the grey yellow combo of this piece. So three for my wife and one for me - fair right?

The dark grey dial with the contrasting yellow numbers and markers is outstanding. Clean. This version is called Tangomat Ruthenium. The watch measures 38.3mm across. As with the Tangente, the watch comes with a Shell Cordovan leather strap.

At the back houses the in-house Epsilon automatic movement. As with the Alpha movement, the Epsilon comes with the Glashütte three quarter plate, Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage. The movement features a bidirectional automatic rotor.

Nomos makes honest watches - they don't charge an arm-and-a-leg for their watches. I consider them reasonably priced especially when they are developed in-house and the level of finish is better than many Swiss brands 3-4 times more expensive. I recall the outrage (for most except the hardcore supporters) several years ago when a particular P-brand fitted an unfinished UNITAS movement into their Limited Edition piece and sold it with a closed case back hoping no one will be none the wiser. Well, all I can say is that Nomos stands far higher than the P-brand.

And in recent years, they have develop some more interesting pieces like the Tangomat GMT, Zürich Weltzeit (world time) and lately the Lux and Lambda range. For more information, please go to Nomos website. And for the limited editions, here is somewhere you can check out Nomos Limited Edition.