Showing posts with label Jumping Hours. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jumping Hours. Show all posts

Thursday, April 9, 2015

Goldpfeil & Vincent Calabrese - The Jumping Hour

Several years ago, the German luxury brand Goldpfeil commissioned a collection of 7 timepieces in collaboration with some members of the AHCI. The collection is called the Seven Masters made by independent brand owners. One such watch that came out of that collaboration was the Vincent Calabrese Jumping Hours.

The Goldpfeil series had watchmakers like Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk) and Vincent Calabrese amongst others. Mr. Calabrese as many would know is the name behind the Corum Golden Bridge and he later started his own company NHC which specialises in the jumping hour complication. The Goldpfeil Jumping Hour is housed in a white gold case.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese01_zps9af087ca.jpg

The watch features a jumping hour complication and the hour window is located at the twelve. The date window is at the six and the minute hand is the logo of Goldpfeil.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese11_zpsb0f901a1.jpg

Encased in white gold, the scratches show through unlike steel case which are probably more scratch resistant. The hour and date discs are slightly salmon pink is colour and the "jump" is instantaneous.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese12_zpse94c435d.jpg

Each Goldpfeil watch features a signature - the Goldpfeil arrow. In this timepiece, the blue Goldpfeil arrow is the minute hand. What is also unique is the case - lacking a "dial". Mr. Calabrese reduces the timepiece to the essentials of telling time.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese02_zps70cfb550.jpg
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese04_zps11acae64.jpg

The lugs are also slightly curved so it sits on the wrist a little better.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese06_zps4ac68c5c.jpg

The Goldpfeil Vincent Calabrese GPVC11101 features an automatic movement modified by Mr. Calabrese. The case is a rather small 35mm and actually nice for ladies.
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese10_zpscc215762.jpg
 photo GoldpfeilVincentCalabrese08_zps309e7493.jpg

Unfortunately, the Goldpfeil collection launched in 2001 is long closed and all watches probably account for. Read more about the Goldpfeil collection in my earlier post on the Vianney Halter. And the immediate task is to have this restored to its former shine. Runs well but I have to take better care of the case.

Friday, April 3, 2015

Vianney Halter & Goldpfeil

Long before Max Busser and other brands got together with friends and partners to collaborate on developing unique and technically challenging timepieces, Goldpfeil of Germany was already doing so. The German luxury products maker collaborated with a group of independent watchmakers and developed 7 timepieces for the brand under its name. What Goldpfeil told the AHCI members is that they are to create unique timepieces that reflect a high level of aesthetics and technical sophistication worthy to be part of a a historic collection.

The German luxury marque approached the Academie Horlogere des Createurs Independants (Horological Academy of Independent Creators - AHCI) to commission a few watchmakers to develop a one-of-a-kind timepiece featuring style unique to each watchmaker. The watchmakers were invited to the Offenbach headquarters outside Frankfurt to view the works of Goldpfeil and probably to draw inspiration to their own masterpiece. The invited AHCI members were Sven Andersen, Urwerk Founders (Thomas & Felix Baumgartner & Martin Frei), Vincent Calabrese, Vianney Halter, Frank Jutzi, Bernhard Lederer and Antoine Preziuso.

The year was 2001 when the “dream team” unveiled the 7 timepieces - all uniquely reflecting the character of each watchmaker. One of the more sought after piece from that collection came from Vianney Halter. And in my recent trip to Japan, I managed to pick up one piece for a friend - and what a catch it was!
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 20_zpseixopn4w.jpg

Each Goldpfeil timepiece has the signature Goldpfeil arrow - either as a minute or hour hand or as engraved on the crown. In the case of the GPVH 11149, the blue Goldpfeil arrow is the minute hand.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 12_zpsuqkp0sns.jpg

The timepiece displays a “jumping” hour, a rather unique “moon phase” indicator and the larger minute window taking up the centre space.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 11_zpsfjqan35t.jpg

The rectangular white gold case with a curved back sits nicely on the wrist.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 08_zps7kse93xj.jpg

Even the crown is unique.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 14_zpsfduougnm.jpg

Another unique feature of the timepiece is the “dimpled” case. One look and it is instantaneously recognisable.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 09_zpsht897yoy.jpg

And what about the moon phase indicator? Well, instead of showing a revolving moon as most other timepieces will show, Vianney decided to change the display. And what a novel way to tell the moon phase using a rectangular pointer to indicate the phases of the moon.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 10_zps0modmlum.jpg

Right in the centre is the minute and seconds hand - the blued Goldpfeil arrow indicating the minute and the sweeping red hand the seconds.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 04_zpszsw7ljvm.jpg

The hour is represented by a “jumping hour” display on the top left corner of the rectangle case.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 13_zpsgr2aqtlb.jpg

At the back, one can see the calibre modified by Vianney for this timepiece.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 23_zpst5k9dods.jpg

One can see the signature of Vianney on the end of the rotor.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 16_zpsbywy4qm1.jpg
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 17_zpsiwrctipe.jpg
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 15_zpsbjnihlis.jpg

And featured here with my Goldpfeil Vincent Calabrese - another “jumping hour”. Case is also white gold.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 21_zpsnkzwfb4w.jpg

And the movement side…
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 22_zpsf9qhzkvw.jpg

In the entire Goldpfeil collection, I love the Vianney Halter the most. Why? Well, the unique nature of the timepiece and the complication truly reflective of Vianney and the Goldpfeil brand.
 photo Goldpfeil Vianney Halter 06_zpsgxf31tm4.jpg

Made in limited quantities, the Goldpfeil collection is actually 14 timepieces - 7 piece-unique timepieces for auction and another 7 “regular” pieces bearing the watchmaker’s signature and the Goldpfeil name. For the Goldpfeil Vincent Calabrese please find my post on that piece.