The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier - Winner Through and Through

The folks at Vacheron Constantin released two (or four depending on how you view it) versions of the Historiques Triple Calendrier in the form of the 1942 and the 1948.

The 1942 comes in steel and with 2 colour variants - the blue and the burgundy. Featured here is the burgundy version of the 1942.

By the time I got to the boutique, the blue version was already sold - and I can understand why. The pictures alone sets the heart fluttering - I love blue shades. Anyway, I digress.

Inspired by the original reference 4240, the Historiques Triple Calendrier pays tribute to timepieces from the 40s. The difference between the two variants are in the calendar display - either in burgundy or blue.

The Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 displays the time along with a pointer date and the Day and month being displayed through a window.

The timepiece comes encased in a steel case of diameter of 40mm and with a two toned dial reminiscent of the watches of that era. Very elegant and vintage feel to the timepiece.

Being a triple calendar means that this is not an Annual Calendar or a Perpetual Calendar. This also means one has to adjust Day and Month window come those months with less than 31 days. This is done via the pusher at 10 and 2.

Next up is the Historiques Triple Calendrier 1948 which is encased in a pink gold case and also comes with two variants - one in burgundy and the other in blue. The original reference 4240L was released in 1948, hence the name.

The big difference between the 1942 and the 1948 is the presence of the Moonphase indication found in the 1948. Not just any ordinary Moonphase but one that is highly accurate. This is the blue version of the 1948.

The burgundy version is somewhat more attractive IMHO. Most Moonphase timepieces have the disc in dark shade of blue - to reflect the night sky... burgundy? This is a first I think. Something different. And the date numerals and day & month display in burgundy certainly blends well with the pink gold case too.

The windows of the the 1948 has a pink gold rim giving it a more distinct design. The 1948 comes as a limited edition of 200 pieces of each variant.

Now for the movement - the Calibre 4400.

Both the 1942 and 1948 uses the same base calibre, the manual winding Calibre 4400. The version in the 1942 is named Calibre 4400QC while the 1948 comes with the Calibre 4400 QCL, the L referring to the Lunar (Moon) module. Both beats at 28,800 vph and and has a 65 hours power reserve.

Personally, I prefer the Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 for a couple of reasons - pricing being the main reason. The 1942 in steel is listed at S$28,600 (inclusive of GST). A great proposition for a Vacheron Constantin. Secondly, the watch feels right... The whole package works for me - the clean two toned dial, the Day & Month window, Arabic numerals and the pointer date - they come together as a very handsome package. For someone like me who needs reading glasses, pointer date (or large date) is preferred as a normal window date is too small.

But that is not to say that I don't like the 1948 - pretty in pink! The burgundy combo works for me - something different. List is S$51,300 inclusive of GST. These are traveling pieces and the straps on the 1948 comes with dark brown croc rather than those seen here.

The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph

Manufacture Vacheron Constantin continues to unveil new developments and 2016 is focused on the Overseas range of timepieces.

There are several intriguing timepieces in the range but I shall leave that for another post. Today, I feature another brand icon, the Overseas Chronograph. A quick look and the most obvious change is the date layout - the big date which was previously at the twelve is gone, replaced by a smaller date window between the four and five o'clock position.

Not promising for me - for a few reasons. One, I believe a date is not necessary in a chronograph. A chronograph is a time measuring machine. So why the need for a date? Secondly, replacing the big date for a small one? Hmm... not promising for me. But as I dived into the timepiece, more and more unique features brings out the new Overseas Chronograph. More positives than one negative...

What I like about today's sports chronograph is that they are versatile as both sport timepieces as well as a daily wear especially when it comes with a bracelet instead of a rubber or leather strap. This is where the new Overseas is exceptional! The new Overseas comes with a quick change feature and the integrated bracelet featuring the brand's Maltese cross pattern.

Not only is it quick change, but easy change too! Press the clip downwards away from the watch case and lift up the bracelet - its just that simple and ingenious! And to put it back, just click it back into place. So the timepiece has become more versatile - bracelet when you want and if you are ready to bring it in for a dip, replace it with a rubber strap and whenever you wish, change into a blue leather strap for a more casual look. One watch, three looks with a clever quick change mechanism - no tools required! A big plus!

And it does not end there - the bracelet also comes with a quick adjustor - what they call the Easy-Fit system. This is found in the bracelet model where one can pull bracelet up to 4mm without having to remove a link. A simply pull allows one to adjust the bracelet length.

What about the anti-magnetic properties? Well, the new Chronograph comes protected, thanks to a soft iron rings that protects the case. And as a true sports piece, the timepiece is also water resistant to 15 bars (150 metres). Previously, the words anti-magnetic were found on the counter at 6 o'clock. This time around, the dial is much cleaner. Even the minute and hours hands are more slender than the previous version.

The timepiece comes with a screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock pushpieces. This is something ingenious, the quarter turn screw-lock pushpieces for the chronograph movement. These features are to provide better water proofing for the timepiece.

The case size is only slightly bigger. The older model is 42mm and the 2016 version is 42.5mm to accommodate the movement. The case features appropriately polished portions (six sided bezel) as well as satin finished surfaces.

The new Overseas Chronograph houses a new column-wheel chronograph Caliber 5200 which was five years in the making. The new Overseas in-house Calibres are developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin and all featuring an automatic movement. Notice the quick change clip underneath the case. Finishing on the movement is as one would expect from the house of Vacheron Constantin - great level of finishing.

The Calibre 5200 for the Overseas Chronograph is a column-wheel chronograph movement with a power reserve of around 52 hours. Bearing the Geneva Seal, the automatic rotor is a 22 carat gold rotor adorn with a wind rose referencing the traveling spirit of the Overseas collection.

There are a few improvements on the movement of the 2016 Chronograph versus the older Calibre 1137. For one, the power reserve has been improve from around 40 hours to approximately 52 hours. Secondly, the new Calibre 5200 operates at 4 Hertz as opposed to 3 Hertz in the older movement. And the best part of the new Overseas Chronograph is the open case back displaying the movement for all to admire. Take a closer look and the column-wheel is designed to the shape of the Maltese Cross which was first featured in the Harmony collection - nice touch there!

Overall, a nice package.

And don't forget the white dial version too...

Despite the date drama for me, the new Overseas Chronograph is definitely an improvement over the older version. And the quick change mechanism is a clear winning proposition for me.

Vacheron Unveils the Harmony

During the SIHH 2015, Vacheron Constantin unveils a series of 7 limited edition timepieces aptly named the Harmony. And this to celebrate 260 years of uninterrupted watch manufacturing. And the chronograph range is a winner for me. Today, I feature first of the three chronographs - the Harmony Chronograph.

The Harmony Chronograph is a manual winding monopusher chronograph in rose gold and limited to 260 pieces worldwide. Stunning is how I would describe the timepiece - well balanced and well... in Harmony!

Unlike other chronographs the start, stop and reset button is a single pusher at the same position and integrated into the crown. The dial features a pulsometric scale.

A close up of the crown showing the Maltese Cross.

The blued hands of the chronograph seconds and the gold minute and hour hands are very well finished. The chronograph hands are in blue and the time display with the golden hands. At the six o'clock is the power reserve indicator.

Now to the beauty of the timepiece - the movement side. Notice the Maltese Cross in the movement?

The beauty in the manual winding chronograph is that you see the full movement and the finishing unlike a chronograph with an automatic movement where the rotor covers half the movement.

The finishing on the movement is top notch as one would expect from the house of Vacheron and the hand engraved balance cock in the calibre 3300 is a testament to how special this piece is. This engraving is only available in all the pieces celebrating the 260th anniversary. The in-house developed calibre 3300 comes with 252 parts and has a power reserve of more than 60 hours.

The cushion shaped case is 42mm by 52mm and only 12.8mm thick.

The reference 5300S comes with the Geneva Seal and a special 260th Anniversary presentation box. The Harmony Chronograph is a very special piece - I cannot recall another cushion shaped chronograph in recent history that I believe will evoke so much emotion.

P.S. the Harmony cushion shaped case is not new to VC. In fact, the "original" cushioned shaped monopusher chronograph was first unveiled in 1928 and true to its roots, Vacheron Constantin is relaunching this collection with some updated numerals to give it a more modern touch.