Sphérotourbillon In A Pocket?

The Le Sentier Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre has done it again - this time putting their signature Sphérotourbillon into a pocket watch. Unveiling the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon pocket watch.

Made as a limited edition of three pieces, this Hybris Artistica series featuring the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon is an exceptional piece. The first thing that one notices is the Sphérotourbillon.

The sub dials are made of enamel while the main dial plate is in white gold. The watch is also encased in a white gold, blue enamel combo and it gives the pocket watch that heft when you handle it.

The movement Calibre 382 is well finished as one would expect from JLC and for such an important piece too.

But the beauty of this pocket watch is in the front. The main dial in white gold is probably hand chiselled and the texture lends to the overall layout of the sub dials. The blue enamel ring around the white gold case adds a touch of class to the whole timepiece. But surely the focus is the multi-axis tourbillon which freely rotates within the case.

I was fortunate enough to handle the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon at the JLC Ion Orchard Boutique. Truth be told, I actually like this more than the wristwatch version as it allows the full appreciation of the timepiece. The overall package is awesome and I am sure it will find a home in some collector soon. Photos taken by iPhone.

Evolution of the Three Quarter Plate - Ferdinand Adolph Lange's Legacy

We all know Ferdinand Adolph Lange developed the signature three quarter plate which is characteristic of most of their timepieces. But how many of us have the opportunity to learn the history of the three quarter plate?

The good people of Lange & Sohne invited us for an event at their boutique at Ion Orchard. Presenting the session was Miss Joanna Lange, Technical & Sales Trainer at Lange, Chris Leung from Lange Hong Kong and Miss Michelle Chen, Head of Lange Singapore.

Joanna brought us through the evolution of the three quarter plate, explaining firstly that the four examples that they brought in to Singapore is the first time these four pocket watches have been taken out from the Lange Museum in Glashutte. The first pocket watches were made by Gutkaes and Lange - Gutkaes being the master of Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Between 1845 to 1855, all pocket watches came with what they classified as triangular plates.

The movement is housed on a double hunter case. This example from the museum is unsigned but the movement shows that this is number 1164 and dated around 1853.

The watch is a chronometer as indicated on the first case back.

And on the outer case back is a hand engraved motif.

The front dial is enamel but no signature - just a plain dial.

After the triangular plate, Ferdinand Adolph Lange developed the half plate which he found to be more stable than the triangular plate. Unfortunately, they did not have an example with them. But I was informed by Joanna that the half plate were for watches made between 1855 to 1860. Then came the two thirds plate.

The two thirds plate was used for pocket watches between 1860 through 1863. A beautiful two thirds plate movement is signed Adolph Lange Dresden. And a beautifully engraved balance cock too.

This example also has the enamel dial signed A. Lange Dresden. This piece is dated 1860 with number 5389. Also double hunter case. A pristine example here.

Then came the three quarter plate as we are so familiar today was used in pocket watches from 1864 onwards.

The above example is signed Adolph Lange, Dresden and dated around 1864 and numbered 6199.

The double hunter case of the pink gold pocket watch. Well decorated and beautifully engraved.

And the engraved case back.

And a wonderful enamel dial to show for in this example.

Then there was another example of the three quarter plate dated 1884 and numbered 18061.

Unfortunately, they could not open the case back. So here is the engraved back.

Many thanks to the folks at Lange & Sohne for a wonderfully educational evening. It also gives me a different perspective on the piece I own. Here's my blog on my Lange pocket watch. I would also like to thank Manfred in Lange Hong Kong who advised me on the purchase. All photos taken by iPhone.

Murano Glass - What About Murano Glass Watch?

Murano in Italy is famous for their Murano glass which is an art form unique to the town of Murano. We visited Venice, Italy and in one of our boat rides visited the small island town of Murano - famed for their glass making.

But surprisingly, there is little collaboration between the glass industry and the watchmaking industry so when we came across a mechanical timepiece featuring the Murano glass as dials, we jumped at it of course. Not one, not two but three of these timepieces!

Because each dial is handmade and the different substances (quantity and colour) added manually, no two dials are alike - similar in colour combination but definitely unique in their own ways.

Upon closer examination, you can see the vibrant colours of the glass and also the transparency that allows one to also see a little of the movement behind.

Perfect for ladies as they can choose each timepiece to match their outfits. See how "deep" the glass motifs are? The three dimensional motif is the signature of Murano glass.

The open case back shows a mechanical skeletonised movement. Nothing fancy, just functional.

I can hardly find these timepieces anywhere since then. Would the ladies wear something like this? My wife does so I am wondering if it is because no one has really marketed this timepiece?

Maybe it is time for a Murano Glass manufacturer to co-operate with a watch manufacture and come up with a line. Perhaps the next Swatch?

The Lange One Tourbillon - An Icon Made More Iconic

The Lange One is the icon of the brand so when Lange decided to develop a tourbillon around this piece, it sure will be a stunning piece.

I am lucky enough to know a friend who owns of these beauties - the Lange One Tourbillon. As with all things Lange, the finishing and aesthetics are beautiful.

And the movement side is a stunner too.

And the hand engraved balance cock is exquisitely executed.

The level of finishing on the movement is as one would expect from the House of Lange. The watch is in platinum and limited to 150 pieces worldwide.

The timepiece has all the signature of the Lange One - off centre dial, large date and the power reserve indicator. A rather beautiful timepiece IMHO.

The tourbillon is located on the right side of the timepiece and well finished too.

A close up of the tourbillon. And the "jewel" at the top of the tourbillon is a diamond!

A simple yet stunning timepiece.

The next is to find the Cabaret Tourbillon which is the first tourbillon to incorporate a hacking mechanism which is a Lange Patent.

At The Races with Manufacture Vulcain

Vulcain Watches developed the alarm watch in the 1940s and put them into serial production. They are equally well known for their cloisonné enamel dials. So what better way than to put both into one timepiece in the timepiece named “At The Races”.

My friend was lucky enough to get his hands on one such beauty. Housed in a 39mm case, the colors of the timepiece is really what gets at you immediately.

The galloping black beauty can be personalised but in this case, the number 12 was pre-printed on the enamel dial.

The beauty is in the dial of course - the amount of work done on the cloisonné enamel to produce such vibrant colors and the intricacies of the design.

Limited to 30 pieces, the timepiece is fitted with the Vulcain Alarm V-10 calibre. The movement features a twin barrel - one for the watch and the other for the alarm function.

The watch is also rated to 50 metres water resistance and case is in rose gold.

Manufacture Vulcain is one of the few who are well known for their elaborate cloisonné enamel dials. They have several models and I have the luck to own one of them - The Vulcain Cricket Aviator GMT "the Dragon."

Hublot Classic Fusion Gold Dragon

To many collectors, finding that special piece is a journey of pain and joy and a friend of mine found the watch he was looking for.

Born in the Year of Dragon under the Chinese zodiac calendar, he was always on the hunt for a piece of significance and found it in the Hublot Classic Fusion Gold Dragon.

The pink gold timepiece is 42mm in size and with gold hands. This series is limited to 50 numbered pieces.

The Classic Fusion Gold Dragon has a rather interesting dial.

The dial looks as if it were speckled with gold dust.

Another close up look at the dial. I must say the dial is pretty well made.

The timepiece comes with the automatic Calibre HUB11 and also with deployant clasp.

Overall a nice especially for those born in the Year of the Dragon.

A happy friend is now the proud owner and the last I asked, this is the piece he wears for special occasions. A worthy Gold Dragon I must admit.