Showing posts with label Chronograph monopusher. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chronograph monopusher. Show all posts

Saturday, June 18, 2016

Beauty is in the Enamel - The Montblanc Villeret Vintage Pulsographe

When two enamel dials come head to head, what is your preference?

Many thanks to the folks at the Montblanc Boutique at Marina Bay Sands and in particular Julien Miribel and Katharina Ueltschi. I managed to capture the beauty of the white gold, white dial Villeret Vintage Pulsographe.

Compare the black dial version in a rose gold case against the white dial version in a white gold case - which would you prefer? The dials are fired using the Grand Feu technique at temperatures exceeding 800 degrees Celsius. A Grand Feu enamel dial is said to be very durable and I can attest to that. Take a look at my Lange pocket watch which dates back to 1908 - the enamel dial is still pristine!

I had earlier written a post for my friends at Deployant featuring my experience in acquiring the beautiful rose gold, black dial piece.

A look at the handsome pair.

Subsequently, I put out my own blog on the Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe. Needless to say I am extremely happy with the acquisition and definitely a keeper. Look out for more photos of the white gold version. Coming soon to a screen near you!

Friday, January 1, 2016

Longines - Making a Strong Comeback!

With the new Heritage Single Push Piece Chronograph, Longines is again moving in the right direction. And what a comeback piece!

The monopusher collection gets its inspiration from their vintage piece. They have three timepieces in their current collection - the Longines Pulsometer Chronograph with the black and another the white dial plus the Heritage Chronograph - without the Pulsometric scale. All timepieces are 40mm - very comfortable to wear IMHO.

The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph reference L2.800.4.23.2 with the white lacquer dial.

The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph reference L2.800.4.53.0 with the black dial.

The Pulsometer scale allows a medical professional to take the heart rate reliably and quickly by using the scale. Instead of taking one minute, the scale allows the user to take the heart rate in 30 beats instead. And this invention was developed in the 1920s.

The white lacquer dial is beautifully done and is adorned with painted black Arabic numerals that makes the piece very legible.

The black dial version is a little more "usual" - honestly, I prefer the white dial version.

The pick for me is the Heritage Single Push Piece Chronograph reference L2.800.4.26.2.

This piece has a two-toned dial and one part made from white lacquer and the other a grey tinged lacquer.

Devoid of the Pulsometric scale, I find this "cleaner" look more appealing. And what about the movement? Well the collection comes with an automatic column wheel chronograph movement.

Top class finishing it is not but still decent given the price range of this collection. The column wheel chronograph movement is produced exclusively for Longines.

The 40mm monopusher chronograph is well priced at around US$3,400. And I clearly think it is a winner!

I believe this range will take to collectors and also will be on many collectors' wish lists. I also posted about the Montblanc Villeret Vintage Pulsographe which also has a Pulsometric scale but the pricing is way higher than this Longines monopusher.

Photos taken by iPhone 6S.

Sunday, April 19, 2015

De Bethune - Excellence From Inception

Before De Bethune, there was De Bethune. And during the early days, De Bethune used third party movements before developing and releasing the DB15.

Right off the bat, the folks at De Bethune understood the philosophy of quality. What makes a timepiece desirable? Well as far as I know, they feel a timepiece has to be accurate and the finishing top notch. At first glance, one will know the work done and the class of a well finished timepiece. Such is the earlier series of DB timepieces. I was lucky to see the original DB8 mono pusher chronograph belonging to a friend and I fell in love with the earlier DB series. And it is a lot more within budget too!
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono09_zps2f0f7106.jpg

The beautifully executed guilloché dials of the earlier DBs are just absolutely mesmerising. The DB8 comes with a third party movement and a closed case back. I understand the movement was from the days when Denis Flageollet was at Techniques Horlogerès Appliquées (THA).
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono08_zps84352a87.jpg

I had asked Alessandro Zanetta (Marketing Director of DB) why the earlier pieces were closed case back and he had said that this was probably because they were third party movements and the only time De Bethune will come with a see-through case back is when they had developed their own in-house movement. Kudos to the folks at De Bethune. Slight digression… Another beautiful look at the guilloché dial of the DB8. Stunning!
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono07_zps4478a7c9.jpg

So why 45 minute counter and not a full 60 minutes? Well some speculate that Denis is a big soccer fan so the 45 minute counter is for one half of a soccer match. True?
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono06_zpse2013bf7.jpg

Even in the early years, the signature tear-drop lugs were already a design feature. And the blued hands are so well made they are to-die-for. The blue hue complements the arabic numerals.
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono05_zps1e593f99.jpg

So impressed I was with the DB8, I started searching for an early model DB. And as luck would have it, I managed to snag a DB9 which is the Power Reserve. Seen here beside the DB8.
 photo DeBethuneDB8Chrono03_zps602249f2.jpg

As I understand it, the DB9 comes with another third party movement - the Jaquet J4000 movement with a 7 days power reserve (168 hours) and a power reserve display. De Bethune DB9 comes with a white gold polished moon on a blue disk which moves from the maximum (right side) to the minimum power reserve. I originally thought the moon was a moon phase but quickly learnt that is it De Bethune’s way of displaying the power reserve - novel!
 photo DeBethuneDB901_zps5ed827ea.jpg

This watch is encased in a 42mm white gold case and the guilloché dial is again very well made. A simple two handed manual winding timepiece.
 photo DeBethuneDB913_zps86912ea9.jpg
 photo DeBethuneDB907_zps46df7b87.jpg

Again, the blued hands are outstanding and the dial work is flawless. The large dial is a gold silver plated dial with blue arabic numerals.
 photo DeBethuneDB903_zps092fd059.jpg

According to their marketing materials, the modified movement is decorated with the Cotes de Geneve pattern and is hand polished. I trust they do good work there looking at their in-house pieces. They have inserted an up and down mechanism to the base calibre for the power reserve indication. The crown is octagonal in shape. Their attention to detail is the hallmark of a De Bethune timepiece.
 photo DeBethuneDB912_zpsddcd5ad0.jpg

There is something about the way the folks at DB does the blue - I simply love the blue hue they are able to develop. The DB9 is my first De Bethune but I hope it will not be my last. So the search continues for more De Bethune timepieces that are within reach.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Montblanc Villeret 1858 - Chronograph Monopusher

Today, I feature the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe Watch.

A few of us were invited to a Montblanc Boutique at Mandarin Gallery some while ago to view some of the collection and I was very much taken by this particular piece. The Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe Watch.

This version in red gold comes with a black enamel dial - beautifully executed and a very attractive timepiece. And the size - a very wearable 39mm unlike many other in the Villeret range which is far to big for the Asian wrist at 44mm and above. Perhaps it is also the size of the movement that dictates the case. I can't stand a brand that puts small movement into large cases to go with the trend of watches above 44mm.
 photo MontblancMinervaChronoDialSide_zps7dc9e132.jpg

The Villeret collection as I understand uses the Minerva movements of old - Richemont now owns the Minerva company and used the movements for the high-end Villeret collection. Signed Minerva and Villeret on the bridge, the movement is also another beauty in column wheel chronographs.
 photo MontblancMinervaChronoMovementSide_zpsf6ecf870.jpg

The watch comes with a hunter case and is also a monopusher. Also notice how large the balance wheel is.
 photo MontblancMinervaChronoMovementSide02_zpsc8617e82.jpg

Here is the movement on a block featuring the Caliber 16-29. Notice the arrow head on the lever? That arrow head is a signature of Minerva watch movements.
 photo MontblancMinervaChronoMovement_zpse51829d6.jpg

Definitely a nice "Doctor's Watch" - for the wealthy doctor that is. I love the watch - the entire package. If only I could afford it.
 photo MontblancMinervaChronoDialSide02_zps41e82514.jpg

Watch also comes with a white gold version but this one I like more. I love the rose gold black dial combo.

P.S. (Nov2015) - I recently acquired the Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe featured above (rose gold black dial) and realised that I had the wrong movement mentioned in this article. The Vintage Pulsographe features a Minerva movement and is called the Calibre M13-21 whereas the case back in the picture above is the Calibre 16-29. Apologies for the confusion.