Movements & Dials - Instant Recognition

There are movements and then there are Movements...

Some timepieces are instantaneously recognised by their movements - and ask most watch collectors, they will tell you immediately which movement comes from which brand etc. And to the TOTALLY serious collectors, they can even tell you the calibre, the watch no matter how complicated or simple the movement is etc.

Let's start with this... Aside from the name on the movement, one can immediately tell this is a Pascal Coyon Chronometer.

Next, another icon... the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph.

The construction of the movement is unmistakably a Lange and for the owners of either the Datograph or the 1815 Chrono, this is all too familiar.

What about this? A few key features are a giveaway of the brand one of which is the interchangeable escapement.

Another interesting calibre - when you see the "Devil's Tail", one immediately knows this is a Minerva movement adapted for Montblanc.

Last but not least, a manual winding chronograph perpetual calendar from the Manufacture Roger Dubuis.

And the beauty is not only confined to the movement. Simple yet recognisable is the Chronometer by Pascal Coyon. The white lacquer dial and the red numerals.

Another white dial to die for is the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. As magnificent as the movement side. Pure...

And the simplest complication of the Moser Perpetual One... black lacquer dial. And if one were not observant enough, who would know this as a perpetual calendar. Simply brilliant!

Montblanc chose to use a Grand Feu enamel dial on their Vintage Pulsographe. Gorgeous!

And the Sympathie by Roger Dubuis featuring a bi-retrograde chronograph perpetual calendar. But what is special about this timepiece is the shape of the case and the sapphire glass that is cut out in the shape of the case. Later models came with circular sapphire glass.

Many of us collectors would like to be able to flip the timepiece to the other side ala "Reverso" and wear the movement side up every now and then. Not to say that the dials aren't anymore beautiful, but looking at the movement every now and then is one of the reasons why us collectors choose mechanical marvels like these.

Golden Charm - A Speake-Marin Icon in Gold

It saddens me that Peter Speake-Marin no longer is associated with the brand he founded in 2002.

With his background in antique restoration and starting his early years in Piccadilly, Speake-Marin designed the now recognisable and iconic Piccadilly case, with distinctive screwed lug and pleated crown. The Speake-Marin of early years came in either the 38mm or the 42mm case. Featured here is the 38mm example which actually fits in pretty nicely for me. And if I am not mistaken, the range called Resilience only came in later.

Due to the case design, and in particular the lugs, the 38mm actually wears like a 40mm. I do have one of the Resilience in a steel case with a Grand Feu Enamel dial but some also come in gold cases as in this case - a solid rose gold case with a rose gold dial.

The signature case - the Piccadilly and the signature lugs. Each Resilience comes with an anti-reflective coated Crystal on the front and case back too.

But the beauty of this piece is in the centre engraving which is hand done.

Hand engraved Guilloché dial - the number of hours put into this gorgeous beauty is unimaginable.

A close up of the centrepiece.

The sheen of the Guilloché dial in pink gold.

The flame-blued steel hands are particularly well made and classic Speake-Marin "Foundation" style central hours and minutes.

A nice brushed dial on the inside.

The timepieces comes with an automatic winding modified ETA2824 movement. What has been changed in the Calibre FW2012? Well, the bridges, gear train, setting lever spring, main plate and rotor wheel has been either replaced or re-designed and they are all hand polished prior to encasing.

The winding rotor features the Speake-Marin signature motif - the watchmaker's topping tool.

The modified movement also features a solid construction with a large balance for precise timekeeping.

The Calibre FW2012 comes with a 42 hours power reserve, 26 jewels and a balance frequency of 28,800 vph. The rotor is hand polished and the quality is excellent!

Totally, a nice package

The rose gold case and Guilloché rose gold dial coupled with the blued steel hands makes the Speake-Marin a very attractive proposition. Peter makes some awesome timepieces which I have covered before and I have to say my favourite being the Magister Tourbillon. Simple complication.